A game subscription looks like a bargain: one monthly fee, hundreds of games. But a bargain only counts if you would have paid for those games anyway. This guide gives you a simple way to check, using your own numbers.

What you are really paying for

When you buy a game, you pay once and you can usually play it for as long as the shop and your console or PC exist. When you subscribe, you pay for access. Games sit in a catalog, and the catalog changes: titles arrive, and titles leave. Stop paying and the access stops too.

So the two options are not the same product. A purchase is a thing you keep. A subscription is a rental with a very large shelf. Neither is better in general. The question is which one costs less for the way you play.

The only three numbers that matter

Forget the headline "hundreds of games". Three numbers of your own decide the result:

1. How many games you actually play in a year. Not how many you download. Count the ones you play for more than an hour or two.

2. How many of those are in the catalog. If you only want one big new release and it is not included, the subscription does not help with that one.

3. How many months you would stay subscribed. Many people subscribe for a few months, finish what they want, and pause. That can be far cheaper than paying all year round.

Prices use any currency; read them as your own. Tiles: green = covered by the subscription, coral = you buy it.

Try these three cases

Move the sliders to see how fast the answer flips. A few patterns tend to show up:

The binge. Set months to 2 or 3 and the share high. You play a lot of catalog games in a short burst, then pause. This is where subscriptions are strongest.

The all-year player with one favourite. Set games to 2 and months to 12. You are paying twelve monthly fees to play two games. Buying usually wins.

The new-release chaser. Set the share to 0 to 20%. If the games you want are rarely in the catalog, the fee is nearly pure extra cost.

What the calculator leaves out

It is a simple model, so keep these in mind:

Resale and sharing. A game you bought on a disc can sometimes be sold or lent. A subscription game cannot. If you resell, buying is cheaper than the chart shows.

Discovery. A catalog lets you try a game you would never have paid for. That is a real benefit, and it is hard to put a price on. If you only play what you would have bought anyway, ignore this.

Rotation. A game you want may leave before you finish it. Check what is leaving soon before you commit.

Prices and tiers change. Plans, perks and catalogs differ between services and countries, and they change over time. Always read the current plan details on the service's own page, and use the real price for your country in the first slider.

What to look for

Before you subscribe, do this five-minute check:

Write your shortlist. List the games you want to play in the next few months, then check how many are in the catalog of the plan you are considering.

Plan the months. Decide how long it will take you to finish them, subscribe for that long, and set a reminder to cancel or pause.

Compare against the real price. If the catalog games on your list would cost more to buy than the months you need, the subscription wins. If not, buy the ones you want.

Check the auto-renew. Know when the next charge lands, so a cheap month does not turn into a forgotten year.